HEDGEHOG CARE
Housing requirements:
Hedgehog cages need careful consideration, the cage needs to be able to hold the cage essentials as well as maintain an accurate temperature. The cage must be a minimum of 4 square feet and have a solid floor. I prefer to use 200 qt sterilite tubs because they maintain heat much easier as well as reduce the risk of injures from our climber hedgehogs. C&C cages and wire top cages require more heating and sometimes will need modified sides to prevent climbers from injury. Cages can be modified with 8" or taller coroplast sides. The larger the cage the harder it is to properly heat the cage. Hedgehogs don't need enormous cages but they need room to run around at night. Cages with ramps are not desirable, if the cage has a second level or ramp it will need to enclosed to prevent falls.
Temperature Requirements:
Heating:
Are you prepared with a CHE set up?
CHE stand for ceramic heat emitter. That is a heating element that does not put off light. They will need to be used with lamps that are approved for ceramic heat emitters. Most of these supplies can be found at your local pet store and of course online.
A proper "CHE" setup has 4 components. The ceramic heat emitter bulb, reptile thermostat, thermometer with probe and a 8.5 inch or larger dome with a ceramic base.
*I personally prefer thermometer with a probe, the reading can be outside of your cage and you can check on the temperature without disturbing your hedgehog.
*The thermostat is often confused for the thermometer. The thermostat will keep the habitat at a consistent temperature. It turns the heat on and off based off of what it is set to. It works just like the thermostat in your home that turns your ac unit on and off.
*It is important it does not put off light, even red bulb can disrupt their night time cycle and will prevent them from being active at night. (My first winter with my first boy hit fast I put a red bulb on him to prevent him from getting too cold and a few days later realized he had stopped using his wheel. I switch to a CHE and poopy wheel was back!)
*Depending on your cage you may have to add a second heat set up on the other side of the cage. I haven’t personally had to do this when I wrap the side with fleece to keep the heat in.
Hedgehogs require a cage temperature between 74 and 80 degrees. Our hedgehog room is set at 80 degrees at all times. Temperatures below 72 degrees may cause your hedgehog attempt hibernation. When you decide where you will keep your hedgehog's cage please consider heat rises. NEVER place the cage directly on the ground. The floor temperatures are usually 5+ degrees lower than the air temperature. This can trigger hibernation which in some cases can be fatal in African Pygmy Hedgehogs.
Sudden drops in temperatures can trigger hibernation. Cages should not be on the floor, near a fire place, by vents and windows to prevent sudden drafts. Another thing to watch for is over heating. If your cage reaches a temperature over 80 degrees, your hedgehog may lay spread out with belly on the ground. Ceramic tiles are a quick way for them to cool down if the cage gets too warm.
Signs and Symptoms of hibernation
cold to touch.
lethargic
wobbly
poor appetite
Skin contact is the quickest and safest way to warm up your hedgehog. Do not place your hedgehog back in the cage until he is active and no longer wobbly. I always recommend a vet check up after a hibernation attempt. Unfortunately, in my experience I have had hedgehogs become sick after a hibernation episode so please watch your hedgehog carefully and avoid triggers. To help avoid hibernation attempts keep your hedgehog warm, keep away from drafts, and keep light schedule! 75-80 degrees in my opinion is the safe temperatures. Cuddle sacks, tunnels and hedgie blankets (15" x 15" fleece squares) are great for keeping them warm as well.
ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW.
Diet
Selecting the proper food is crucial to your hedgehog’s health.
Hedgehogs need a good quality dry cat food. We do not recommend commercial hedgehog foods the majority are full of fillers and harmful ingredients. When considering a high quality cat food look at the nutrition labels. You will want a food with a meat as the first ingredient with minimal fillers . We prefer chicken and turkey, foods with fish can cause stinky poop in some hedgehogs. Ideally the protein should be around 30-35% and fat 10-15%. If you need help finding a food we will supply you with a list of foods we use in our mix. Adult hedgehogs will usually eat about 2 tablespoons each night.
Under no circumstances should your hedgehog be fed foods labeled “Hedgehog Food” that can be found at pet stores. These foods often do not provide your hedgehog with adequate nutrition and sometimes even contain ingredients not recommended for hedgehogs at all. We have personally seen this result in many issues in customer’s hedgehogs, including multiple cases of loss of limb function which is reversed when the hedgehog is returned to a diet of quality cat food. Additionally, you should not feed your hedgehog any food that is over 35% protein unless the label states at least 90% of the protein is derived from meat sources. Fillers such as corn and peas should be avoided. They should not be fed cheap cat foods, full of fillers, such as Meow Mix and Friskies. Likewise, many expensive foods, such as Science Diet, are often not much better when it comes to ingredients. Your hedgehog, when provided with nutritionally appropriate food, will cost less to feed each month than even your average rodent and generally will only eat about 1-3 tablespoons of food per day. Please ensure you are making the most out of it by feeding them a quality food. (we do two heaping tablespoons every night)
Bonding:
We begin socializing our hoglets at 10-14 days old up until they are weaned. Bonding should begin immediately once the hedgehog leaves our care! Persistence is they key. Hedgehogs rely on their sense of smell to determine who their person is, once they are used to their surroundings they will associate your scent with safety. The first couple weeks are crucial for the bonding experience therefore you need to commit 30 to 60 minutes a day to bonding with your hedgehog.
The goal to bonding is to get your hedgehog accustomed to your scent and touch. Some hedgehogs bond quickly with their person and others may take awhile. Be patient and persistent.
Bonding through scent is the most important form of bonding because hedgehogs have a great sense of smell. I suggest sleeping in a t-shirt or on a large piece of fleece for a couple nights before bringing home your hedgehog. You will want to have your cage set up prior to bringing home your new companion. I place the piece of fleece in the the hedgehog's cuddle sack/igloo and the t-shirt over the cage. You can repeat every couple of days. (Heavy scented lotions, perfumes and laundry detergents are not recommended during the bonding experience, these may mask your scent.)
Snuggle time makes your hedgehog feel secure and more receptive to you. The goal is to let them relax and explore. Shy or quilling hedgehogs will not want to touched or petted on their backs, but you can talk to them softly to get them accustomed to your voice. I like to sit and hold my hedgehogs while watching TV, doing homework or just checking my E-mail. Sometimes I will even wear my hoodie backwards and allow my hedgehogs to sleep in my hood while I am doing my house work. If your hedgehog is not adjusting to any of these suggestions then try to bond in the evenings. Getting 30 to 60 minutes a day of bonding is not hard at all. These are just a few of many bonding techniques you can do!
Bath time:
When preparing the bath remember that the water should be safe enough for a baby. I recommend no more than 3 inches of water, the depth of water will depend on your hedgehog. Avoid water getting in your hedgehog's eyes, ears and nose. NEVER leave your hedgehog alone in the bath tub.
Gather all supplies you need before you place your hedgehog in the water. Some items to have on hand are Aveeno oatmeal body wash, a toothbrush or nail brush, nail clippers and a towel. You can also do an oatmeal bath during bathing time, this soothes the skin and can relax your hedgehog. (See Quilling for Oatmeal Bath Instructions)
Foot Bathes:
Foot bathes may be needed dailey before bonding time. When your hedgehog runs on their wheel they will poop on their wheel, they will often will get "poop boots."
For a footbath all you will need is a toothbrush and warm water. Fill the sink or tub up with 1" of warm water and let your hedgehog walk around to loosen the crud then lightly scrub the feet with toothbrush until cleaned.
Quilling:
Quilling can takes place up until a year old, it is the shedding of older quills and the growth of new ones. Quilling can be uncomfortable for the hedgehogs and you may notice the hedgehog has become very grumpy. The sweetest hedgehog can become a popping, huffy, spiky ball of quills. This is normal! During this time their backs are sensitive, it is best to keep minimal contact with their backs. Bonding during this time is still encouraged.
The heaviest quilling stages in my experience have taken place between 6 to 12 weeks, it varies by each hedgehog. True colors can not be determined until around 6 months before then it is just an educated guess.
During the quilling stages we recommend oatmeal bathes often to help ease the discomfort and help soften the skin so the new quills can emerge easier. When thinking of quilling think of a teething baby. Anyone who has had a baby with a miserable teething experience can put quilling into perspective.
Oatmeal bath instructions: Put 1 cup of uncooked regular oatmeal ( not quick oats) in either panty hose or a sock then tie. Hold the oatmeal under warm running water and squeeze the sock until the water is a milky color. I like to put a pea sized amount of coconut coconut oil in the sock as well. The water should warm, NEVER use hot water. If the water is a safe temperature for an infant then it will be safe for a hedgehog.
HELPFUL GUIDES
